I have just completed the uploading of several albums of the North Coast road & rail bridges from Sea Cow Lake to Umhlatuze which can be found in the North Coast Gallery. Many of the bridges are engineering works of art that have stood the test of time through sunshine and storm – some haven’t like the John Ross Bridge that was swept away in the 1987 Natal floods, only to be rebuilt. My favourites are the iron rail bridge over the Tugela River and the Umhlatuzi Rail Bridge at Felixton Sugar Mill.
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KZN – North Coast Bridges
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Cathkin Valley – Drakensberg – Sandra’s se Winkel
Sandra’s se Winkel Museum, in Cathkin Valley in the Central Drakensberg is the place to go for a nostalgia rush. Sandra Lemmer has recreated an old trading store with old stock, signage and much more, a lot of it sourced from an old trading store in Lesotho. The stock is not for sale but includes many of the well known brands going back to the 1900’s, some “extinct” and some in its old original packaging. You can wander around for ages with thoughts like “I remember that”, or ” I used that’, or ” I had forgotten about that” etc.
Sandra is also engaging and her enthusiasm is visible in this genuine interesting “time capsule” of many famous brands. She also has a winkel where she has some interesting old items for sale. Her contact is Sandra : lemmersandra@gmail.com
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Durban – Newmarket Stables
The Newmarket stables and Stables Market area is due to dissapear from the Durban scene before too long to make way for a new Soccer Acadamy.
The move by the Municipality has been controversial with claims of lack of consultation and strong arm tactics made by existing tenants. Berea Rovers Club nearly dissapeared, however after much consultation it has been incorporated into the new development. I am told that Liverpool Football Club, who are associated with the new venture, were unhappy to be associated with the closure of one of Durban’s oldest clubs.
The Newmarket stables has been the home of the equestrian community for many years and the venue for the annual Yearling Sales, as well as being one of Durban’s green lungs for which it has many. Ironically it has also been the stabling for the Durban Metro Mounted Police, and for which no alternative stabling has been found at time of writing.
The question of most of Durban’s sports club’s tenure is a major issue. In many cases, the clubs are on month to month leases when the original lease expires, and the Municipality is refusing to negotiate extensions. This has resulted in clubs being unwilling to invest in their fixed assts and the ultimate closure or degradation of facilities.( This almost looks like a wilful and wholesale strategy that eventually ends in diposition – maybe a case for the Constitutional Court?)
Lets hope this new development adds value to a very important zone in Durban’s Sporting precinct.
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Bazley – MacNicol’s Caravan & Camping Resort
I was on a ship last week and per chance met with June & Angus MacNicol the owners of this well known South Coast resort. The resort is well known for its warm hospitality and it’s not hard to fathom out why when you meet the MacNicols. Angus assures me that their jam and cream scones at 10.30 are not to be missed.
I have just posted up some images of Bazley and the Resort under Galleries in the South Coast & Tourism sections.
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Umhlanga Ridge – Sunningdale Centre
Although the Sunningdale Centre on Umhlanga Rocks Drive had little architectural merit, many residents will remember their local with some affection.
The Centre is in the process of being demolished (see images) and will be replaced with a much larger grander centre, with either a Spar or Woolworths as anchors. Let’s hope than in enlarging the footprint, that the developers will improve access to the site, and spare some thought for landscaping? 
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Ixopo – Buddhist Retreat Centre
I have just had the privilege of attending a retreat conducted by Louis van Loon the founder of the the BRC more than forty years ago. Aside from the amazing Buddhist philosophy and opportunity to meditate, the Centre is simply one of our Province’s very special places.
The special meaning of this religion or experience is reinforced by special people, surrounds, flora, fauna , landscapes, forest walks, and their special tasty vegetarian fare.
The Centre has an amazing program of thought provoking presenters closely related to their ethos.
Contact : 039-8341863/Email:brcixopo@futurenet.co.za/0878091687
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Umlaas Road – Mandalay Hotel
A trip into the interior with my friend Charlie took us to the derelict Hotel Mandalay in Umlaas Road.
The site, at the highest point between Durban and Pietermaritzburg has an interesting history. Originally it was the third night outspan for transport riders from Durban, after Winklespruit and Eston. The current hotel was built around 1940 by the Horner family and became a popular establishment. It was also close to Killarney Station on the old Umlaas – Illovo 2ft. gauge rail line (now lifted). Sadly the property is in a bad state of disrepair.
According to the current owner the Hotel declined and became a house of ill repute for a while. The new owner has plans to restore the Hotel in the future.
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Ladysmith Siege – Boer War
On the recommendation of Ken Gillings I met up with Vincent Horn. a tour guide in Ladysmith to visit some of the less well visited sites relating to the Anglo Boer War. One site was to a monument to the 1 St Batt. Royal Irish Fusiliers who died in this conflict. I took a tumble on the rocky overgrown site and the results are depicted on this post. Vincent suggested that because I had a little Boer pedigree, that there was some justice in me shedding some blood, albeit 115 years after the event at this memorial.
If you want a tour by someone who knows this area intimately, you can’t go far wrong in engaging Vincent Horn (00-27-837810740)
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Boer War Era Farms
Dundee – Talana – Thornley Farm
Dundee – Talana – Thornley Farm – outbuilding used as Boer Mortuary
Glencoe – Wasbank – Lodewyk De Jager – Manor house veranda – used as billet in Boer War
Glencoe – Wasbank – DE Jager – Manor House – 1891 wagon shed foundation stone
Glencoe – Wasbank – “Uithoek” – Karel Landman’s original cottage
A recent trip to Blood River also took me to a few Boer War era farms.
The first was Thornley Farm behind the Talana Hill which was used as a Boer hospital, HQ, and mortuary during and after the battle of Talana. The homestead and outbuildings are in good shape in private hands. There is also the graves of descendants of the Smith family who first settled the farms.
The second was the farm “Uithoek” which belonged to Kommandant Karel Landman of Blood River (1838) fame. The small original home is in poor shape and the graveyard somewhat neglected. I was however grateful to the owners for access to the site.
The third farm, very close to Uithoek, belonged to Kommandant De Jager and called the Manor house. This was one of the few Boer farms not burnt as it was used as a British billet. The house is well cared for and thanks to Wouter de Wet, (Manager)for being so affable and hospitable. He tells me that there are resident ghosts in the house! Apparently some British soldiers were playing cards and a dispute ended in a fatal shooting. The floor boards were subsequently turned over to hide the blood stains. The farm also has a family related graveyard.
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Dundee – Lennox Cottage Guest House
A visit to the battlefields in the Dundee – Blood River area will be greatly enhanced with a stay over at Lennox Farm, run by Dirk and Salome’ Froneman, who have lived in this area for many years. The accommodation is comfortable, but it is the meals that are a stand out winner. Even the breakfast is a work of art.
The ambiance, and furnishings are awesome, especially if you appreciate the fine textures of well made wood furniture and art. The hospitality, needless to say, is in accord with the establishment.
Contact : lennox@dundeekzn.co.za
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Kamberg – Cleopatra Mountain Farmhouse
The State President recently announced his awards to deserving South Africans. Without detracting from their achievements, it’s a great shame that some awards aren’t presented to the less politically connected who have made such an outstanding contribution to this countries reputation as a tour destination.
The Poynton’s contribution to tour and food excellence for our visitors is well known, and has been oft recognized by the industry for its high standards, both at Cleopatra’s and their previous successful Granny Mouse’s Country House. At least former State President, Thabo Mbeki recognized a ” good thing”, and stayed at Cleopatra.
Needless to say the fare was outstanding, as was the attention to detail in the rooms, facilities and by the cheerful staff. Add a simply awesome setting to the mix and you have a full house literally and metaphorically.
Contact details: Tel : 00-27 (0)33 2677243 / 00 27 (0)33 2677013/ e: cleopatramountain@telkomsa.net / www.cleomountain.com
Cleopatra’s gardens
Cleopatra Mountain Farmhouse
Cleopatra Mountain Farmhouse – Autumn reflections
Cleopatra Mountain Farmhouse – Lake view
Richard and Mouse Poynton – Owners
Cleopatra Mountain Farmhouse – A taste of one of the legendary menus on offer
Cleopatra Mountain Farmhouse – Gateway to the wine den
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Besters Village, old graves and the old Free State Line
First Boer killed in Natal 16 October 1899
Hans De Lange Monument
Smiths Crossing – Free State Commando HQ – 1899
Rail line – Free State to Natal – views from Van Reenen rail pass
For anyone wishing to get some fresh air and to mix up a bit of History, rural life, and mountain passes, I can recommend an easy day trip from Ladysmith, past Smiths Crossing farm ruins(Free State HQ 1900), into Besters Village to see what remains, along with the grave of the first Boer to die, Fred Johnson, Kommandant Hans Don, executed for murder, Private Skinner of the 5th Lancers and that of a child (De Jager) who is buried next to Private Skinner.
The graves are hard to find but co ordinates are on my Besters Gallery (Inland Section), as are images of this area.
You can then take a drive along the Free State – Natal line and at the foot of the mountains head up the old NGR line, through an abandoned rail tunnel, along the old line route and emerge at the top of Van Reenen’s Pass. The views are Stunning.
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South Coast Bridges – Toti to Umkomaas
Illovo River rail bridge
Ngane River rail bridge
Umgababa River rail bridge
Umkomaas River road and rail bridge at mouth
Umkomaas River road bridge (N2)
I have just uploaded road and rail bridges between Amanzimtoti and Umkomaas over rivers such as the Illovo, Umgababa, Ngane, and Umkomaas.
My most favourite is the iron rail bridge over the Illovo river which is visible from the N2 road bridge.
Go to Galleries – South Coast – South Coast Bridges for the full album of this section of bridges.
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The Cedars – PMB
A big thank you to Jane Pennefather for allowing me to photograph one of the older farms in KZN that belonged to the English family . The farm house has been incorporated into PMB suburbia but has been lovingly restored to its former glory. Much of the Yellowood in the home was harvested in the nearbye forest and the impact of the use of this timber is apparent in the attached images. It’s heart warming to come across this heritage treasure in good shape and good hands.
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Nagle Dam
Nagle Dam Wall – 44m high and 393m long
Nagle Dam diversionary spillway
Nagle Dam diversion weir
Nagle Dam wall
Nagle Dam which opened in 1950 to supply Durban is well worth a visit or stay in the Umsinsi run resort. Aside from the interesting scenic drive in the Valley of a Thousand Hills, the dam has some interesting features like the diversionary spillway, which is designed to divert silt laden flood waters. The dam with a wall height of 44.3 m and length of 393m provides some interesting photographic opportunities, in addition to the surrounds and bird life.
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Rorkes Drift – St Augustines Mission
St Augustine Mission Church
St Augustine Church interior
St Augustines – one of many substantial outbuildings
St Augustine’s Mission stain glass
St Augustines entrance gate
bA visit to Rorkes Drift included exploring the St Augustines Mission about 10 kms north of the Drift. The Church started and completed in 1903, by Dr Charles Johnson is still in reasonable condition. The numerous well built outbuildings are however in a state of disrepair.
A visit to the Mission should be included in any tours of the area to this mission, one of many built by Dr Johnson (1850 to 1927). I was taken around by a very friendly and able youngster but a guide is reccommended.
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DURBAN BEREA – Lucas Gardens
Lucas Gardens founder, Margaret Lucas
The tragedy of War is often forgotten, however Lucas Gardens, in Ridge Road on the Berea is a poignant reminder of the intense pain inflicted on families by war. Lucas Gardens, now a home for women was established by Margaret Lucas, who had to endure the catastrophe of having two of her sons killed in action in September 1917, in Flanders, within one days of one another. This home is dedicated to their sacrifice and is now run by TAFTA , an organization devoted to the elderly.
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Trappist Missions
Himmelberg Mission church between Umzinto and Jolivet
I have recently added to the images of the more than 20 Trappist Missions in KZN, and it never fails to amaze me how much was achieved by the monks and nuns of Marrianhill in so short a time.
I believe that the “collection”of missions is a national asset and should receive more attention by Tourism authorities and Department of culture. It would in a very positive way assist the communities and schools associated with the Missions. The existing structures represent an investment that gives ready leverage to any initiatives.
Below are images of St Michaels (Njane), Himmelberg and Kevelaer Missions, in the area.
Under Gallery, go to the drop down and see Missions, Churches and Monastries for more images.
Kevelaer Mission church near Donnybrook
St Michaels Mission church near Jolivet and Njane
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Lions River Trading Store
Lions River Mill on the Lions River
Mill Turbine top protruding through shop floor
Trading post wares
Image of old mill on Lions River
,A trip into the midlands should also include a visit to the old Lions River Trading Post which is based alongside the Lions River. As well as the antiquities on sale, it is a step back in time. Parts of the late 1800’s store and mill still exist, with the old mill turbine protruding through the shop floor.
For all the sins being lumped upon the colonials, they certainly brought century old skills with them, and made use of sustainable resources, in this case the strongly flowing Lions River. Eskom could take a leaf out of their book, especially with their recent decision to forsake renewable energy options and go Nuclear. (This whilst Germany is closing nuclear facilities?)
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Umzinkulu – Centocow Trappist Mission
Overview of Centocow Mission on the south banks of the Umzimkulu River
Altar of the Church – Centocow
Interior of Centocow
The two Centocow churches, the front now the Gerard Bhengu Gallery
I recently commented on the amazing heritage created by Francis Pfanner from Marrianhill Monastry, and the enormous amount of work he accomplished in a short time, both at Marrianhill and the other 22 Mission stations in the rural areas of KZN. Pope Francis has recently declared Mother Theresa a Saint, 18 years after her death. Perhaps Francis Pfanner should be considered for Sainthood, given the incredible work he did, over 100 years ago, in South Africa.
I have uploaded some more images of Centocow Mission on the banks of the Umzimkulu river, which includes interior images of the Church. See Gallery – Missions , Churches – Umzimkulu Centocow Trappist Mission for more images.
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