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Ladysmith Siege Museum

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Amongst much of the memorabilia and displays in this siege museum in the CBD are images of the military figures present in the town, besieging it or involved in its relief, and associated battles. Amongst them are General’s Botha, Koch, Haig and Joubert seen below. This well put together exhibit has diaramas, memorabilia, images and much more from the period and is a must see in order to obtain a well balanced overview of this siege from 2 November 1899 to 28 February 1900.

Kommandant Generaal Piet Joubert – Boer Commander at the time

Boer and British Commanders

           Kommandant Generaal Louis Botha

(Later)  General Haig visiting                          Ladysmith in 1921

Ghandi with the Indian Volunteer Corps

General Koch (killed at Elandslaaghte)


My new book on the Trappist Missions – Pre-publication order

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The information flyer for the new book

Front page of new book

Pre Publication order form

Colenso – A town in decline

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Colenso has never really recovered from the closure of the ESCOM Power Station in 1984, as these images clearly illustrate. Perhaps this is synonymous with the fate of ESKOM as a whole, which has been systematically plundered by ANC appointees.

The fire less steam locomotive  below was built in 1937 by Bagnall & Co Limited and was used for short distance haulage for the power station.

Our Society visit to the local museum was also thwarted as the key was lost!

 

Colenso town centre – ruined trading store.

Escom – Bagball fireless steam loco – 1937

Escom steam loco

Escom – Fireless Steam Loco – built by Bagnall                                   & Co.

Colenso derelict residence

Colenso – neglected water feature.

Durban – Greyville Primary School

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My thanks to the Principal of Greyville Primary, Dr Mark Jacobs, who allowed me to photograph the school and some of the admission registers. The school dates back to the 1920’s when it was known as Windermere Girls school, Mitchell Girls, Bechet College, Umlazi Commercial Clollege and finally in 2000 becoming Greyville Primary. The architecture is simple but elegant making use of wide verandas between classrooms. As with most state schools there is a infrastructural neglect and lack of maintenance. This is sad given the enthusiasm of the principal.

Greyville Primary front gates.

The Principal – Dr mark Jacobs. (2018)

Greyville Primary – connecting verandas.

Greyville Primary – verandas give shelter from rain and heat.

Greyville Primary – extensive use of verandas.

Colenso – The Battle for Hart’s Hill

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The battle of Hart’s Hill (Inniskilling Hill/Terrace) was part of the attempt to relieve Ladysmith and this battle commenced at mid day on 23 February 1900. The Brigade had crossed the Tugela at Pom Pom bridge.The Inniskillings were first at the base of the hill and raced up forcing the Boers to retreat to their main positions further back and overlooking open ground.The Inniskillings found themselves pinned down and taking heavy casualties, which included commander,Lt-Col TMG Thackeray, and Dublin Fusiliers Lt-Col CGH Sitwell. British casualties had reached 450. The British held their positions overnight and were reinforced. At this point General Buller decided to attack further to the right in order to take railway Hill and Pieters Hill. This eventually succeeded and the way to Ladysmith was clear.

Men of the Inniskillings who lost their life

The Inniskilling Monument on Harts Hill

Both the Commander and second in command of the Inniskilling’s died in this engagement.

View from Harts Hill towards Colenso.

Durban Kings Park swimming pool.

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Kings Park Pool is closed for repairs. It was pretty bad timing since Rachael Finlayson  had also been closed for a long time. It has now re-opened . The Commonwealth Games notice sets out qualifying points – lets hope that next time there wont be a need to racially differentiate the qualifying requirements.

2022 Commonwealth Games Squad Points

Kings Park Pool under repair

Kings Park indoor pool.

Kings Park outdoor pool.

 

Ladysmith – Platrand Military Relics.

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On a recent visit to the Anglo-Boer War sites, I visited the Platrand Camp and battle sites overlooking Ladymith. British troops were stationed up on Platrand and Caesars hill for the duration of the siege. Whilst stationed there many of the troops carved inscriptions onto the rocks which formed part of the fortifications.

Below are a few of those found at the forts relating to the 18th Hussars, 2nd Battalion, Manchester Regiment and engravings indicating the Officers Mess and kitchens. Fascinating relics!!

 

Platrand Burgher Monument

Armourer SM Truman and others.

Rock engraving – Smith – Clegg – Sutherland and others.

GV Franklin – NNV 1899 (Naval Volunteers)

Engraving at the makeshift kitchens.

N.N.V. Galley – Cooks : Hatch & Bennett – Naval                         Volunteers.

Platrand Fort – Rock engraving identifying the Officers Mess.

 

Matatiele – Sewerage Centre

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It’s amazing how Councillors look after their own hides but don’t give a toss about their citizens. I was prevented from visiting the War monuments shown here by a very officious women at the closed gates. No explanation was going to open the ‘pearly’ gates.

Matatiele now is managed in a similar fashion, to the old Transkei towns like Lusikisiki. A walk through the town takes you down streets with no pavements and abundant litter. The worst is yet to come, as further down the road towards the rank, one’s nose starts to twitch, with the overpowering stench of sewerage. The storm water drains are now open sewers, running down from the CBD and then alongside the rail terminus.

It’s a disgrace – not even the basics are attended to.

The Town Hall – no entry to a facility which should be open to citizens

War Monuments inaccessible to the public. Photo taken through the fence.

         Matatiele’s proud open sewer.


Matatiele – Ongeluksnek Valley

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If you take a drive on the Ongeluksnek valley road to the south of Matatiele you will come across a well watered, fertile valley. The strange thing is that many of the old sandstone farmhouses are in ruin. I have yet to get a cogent explanation, except that this area at some point was incorporated into the former Transkei and the original farmers left. Some farming is being carried out but it is clear that it is not on an extensive scale, as previous.

         Resorts in the Ongeluksnek Valley

                  Derelict Sandstone Farm

                 Derelict cattle facilities

Derelict farmhouse in Ongeluksnek Valley

Derelict farmhouse in the valley

Ongeluksnek Valley – old boiler house and water tanks.

         Ongeluksnek Valley farmhouse.

Durban – Bellair Station – another rotting National Monument.

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Bellair Station built 1899 – a National Monument.

Bellair Station, built in 1899 alongside Sarnia Road is an utter disgrace. The station building was declared a national monument but you would be hard pressed to know that. The  bronze National  Monument sign is missing, presumably in some Chinese  smelter. (I suggest the China link only because they also seem to be avid collectors of animal parts including rhino, lion and now donkeys.)

Perhaps our protection agencies can be somewhat forgiven for not being able to catch the culprits, however the neglect of this heritage site cannot be excused. The roof vent is broken, the gutters full of forest growth, ceilings broken and most of the windows smashed.

Perhaps windows and ceilings had to be smashed to provide ventilation and a ready fire escape, given the broken air vent. The only good that can be said about the gutters is that the forest therein, contributes to reducing the effects of carbon emissions.

 I suspect that there are very few funds available for such colonial structures when R350.000.000 (yes, that’s three hundred and fifty million rand), is spent on a Museum in Cato Manor, namely the Umkhumbane Cultural and Heritage Centre . Was this just another get rich quick project, that was overpriced ,not adequately supervised and awarded to an undeserving contractor? The mind boggles at the price of this unfinished structure. The museum had great merits but methinks many other agendas were at play besides culture. The old Umkhumbane Heritage Centre that had a more frugal offering was worth a visit, with excellent displays. Those buildings are  also however already showing signs of neglect.

Its mismanagement such as this that leaves little resources for maintenance. Is this deliberate and are we to eventually to become a heritage wilderness?

P.S At least on this visit, despite being closed, they had mowed the grass. Something to do with the recent bad publicity?

Bellair station – the disintegrating air vent and National Monument.

Countering carbon emissions – a new initiative?

Bellairs Station going off grid – another carbon emission initiative – no aircon required.

Bellair Station – National Monument – another green initiative.

Bellair Station – At least someone cares – the blinds are drawn.

 

Umkhumbane Heritage Centre – Cato Manor Museum – How long will this building last without maintenance?

Umkhumbane Cultural & Heritage Centre – great concept but not complete – R350m spent and still counting. No accountability here I’m afraid.

My new book: The Trappist Missions – KwaZulu-Natal’s Forgotten Treasure.

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 Front cover of my newly published                           book.

 

         Map of the 22 former Trappist Missions.

I have just received my hard cover and soft cover books that covers the story of the establishment of these 22 beautiful missions in KwaZulu-Natal.

The book focuses on the beauty of the architecture, stained-glass windows, murals and objets d’art relating to each mission.

The foreword is written by preservation architect, Robert Brusse, who has worked on these missions for over 40 years. 

The book is of 184 pages in full colour, with map and illustrations.

The soft cover sells for R595 and the hard cover for R795. 

Below is an order form that can be printed out and emailed to me, or email me direct using the ‘Contact’ dropdown.

FOREWORD BY ARCHITECT ROBERT BRUSSE OM MY BOOK (Order form below).

“About twelve miles inland from Durban, like a promontory rising amid a sea of valleys, stands bold and abrupt a fair hill, peering on the East over the heads of other hills and dales far, far away even unto the faint blue ocean on the distant horizon, and, on the other side, sloping gently away towards the West into an elevated plain. But Mariannhill, for so is it named, at present exhibits little or nothing, save a bare flag-staff, that can tell the traveller of the blessed pile, which in God’s good time, will adorn its summit.”

So opens the second chapter of a little book, Libyan Fields or the Story of the Missionaries amongst the Zulus in Natal, South Africa…. printed in 1887, and authored by Sihlobosami – otherwise known as Rev. Fr  A.T. Bryant , who, as Fr David was the first English member of the Trappist Order at Mariannhill, South Africa.

This is probably the first English booklet recording the early work undertaken by the then fledgling Trappist Monastery of Mariannhill. Many books have been written since then dealing with the people of Mariannhill and their work, but few have dealt with the beauty of the built environment that they created there, and on the many mission stations.

This book sets out to rectify that omission. It is a book of few words, for images of the many places and everyday objects ‘speak louder than words’. It is one man’s joyous journey through the rich visual legacy that arose from those humble beginnings that Sihlobosami wrote about.

After a short introduction outlining the history of its founding, its founding Father and its principal designer and estates manger, there follows a visual pilgrimage from the Monastery Cloisters,  to the greater Mariannhill and beyond, to a number of the larger mission stations. The progress through the mission stations  has been kept strictly chronological to give some idea of the relatively haphazard opportunities that were offered to and taken up by the Order.

Considering how difficult it must have been to travel around this province in the years 1882 – 1910  one stands amazed at what was achieved. One’s admiration is increased when one realizes that much was made from local materials, but much else had to be transported by ship from Europe. A letter of gratitude to the manufacturers of the milling equipment for one inland mission station records that the delivery was perfect and that not a single screw was short!

Join us on a visual journey through this book and then… try the reality…. go forth and discover….

ADVANCE FLYER – ORDER APRIL Trappist Mission

ADVANCE FLYER – FRONT PAGE – Trappist Missions PDF

FOREWORD BY ROBERT BRUSSE PDF

 

 

Pennington Beach – South Coast

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A special little place on the south coast is the Pennington restaurant overlooking the tidal pool and a short distance from the wide open beaches.

 This little oasis is worth a visit even if passing bye. The kiosk has good wholesome food with friendly service.

 

Restaurant kiosk at Pennington Beach

Tidal Pool at Pennington Beach

Umhlanga Ridgeside Developments.

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Blink your eyes on the ridge another concrete and glass structure has emerged from the diminishing cane-lands that had been abandoned to birds and bees for many years.

I know this is progress, but are there no architects out there that can depart from the grand concrete, glass, chrome and glitz that dominates the current trend?

How about some Avant-Garde, Post modernism, Art Deco, Art Nouveau or Baroque structures to break from the same? 

 

Umhlanga Ridgeside – yet another block on the ridge

Ridgeside becomes concrete

Ridgeside – some of the diminishing green space

Yet another BLOCK

Fort Nottingham in Autumn

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The road to Fordoun Spa near Nottingham Road

The Fort Nottingham farming area is highly productive, with dairy, agriculture, being the main commerce. The villages of Fort Nottingham and Nottingham Road, were started in the mid 1800’s and at the time were only roamed by Bushmen until the Colonialists arrived. The seasons are marked and autumn colours always precede the cold harsh winters. The images below are reminders of the cold months to come.

Fort Nottingham – Farm entrance in autumn light.

Fort Nottingham pastures

Fort Nottingham pastures

Fort Nottingham pastures

Last light over Fort Nottingham farms

Fort Nottingham farm entrance

 

Durban harbour Victorian Railings

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I received an email from Alison Chadwick who was browsing my site and came across the Victorian railings that run along the sea side of the road directly alongside the shoreline. She informs me that these railings as well as the gates into the Pietermaritzburg City hall were made by her great grandfather Henry Anthony Chadwick (1851-1927), who was born in Norfolk in the UK.

I have always admired the quality and beauty of these railings that have gallantly stood the test of time.

Thank you Alison for this information.

Durban Harbour railings made by Henry Anthony Chadwick


Lions River Railway Station put to creative use.

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Lions River Railway Station

Wherever one goes in South Africa, one comes across the utterly criminal waste of Transnet’s assets.  At every railway station and siding, with few exceptions, the buildings have been neglected, invaded by vagrants and their value destroyed. Most of these structures could have been put to good use by renting or selling to third parties, who could have been held to account for their upkeep and used by small businesses and entrepreneurs. Old railway homes have been vandalized or rendered uninhabitable, instead of being sold off.

What has prevented this? Jealousy, incompetence, bureaucracy or maybe the new wave of social engineering required, before awarding of space?

Lions River Station is an exception to the rule, where creative use has been made of the old goods shed, the building preserved and presumably some revenue accrues to Transnet. (Or at least the building maintained at the operators cost.) If this had been done country-wide the benefits would have been vast.

 

General Redvers Buller’s faithful dog ‘Yalu’

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Grave of 'Yalu".

Whilst photographing at Weston College, Mooi River, I came across the grave of General Buller’s, faithful dog ‘Yalu”, that died in 1907, and is buried alongside one of the old farm houses used as a billet by the British. 

 I couldn’t help thinking that the faith shown by the dog, was not reciprocated in that Buller arrived in 1899, and left South Africa in 1902, and the faithful dog only died in 1907!

General Buller VC, was the British General in the Natal sector during the Anglo Boer War (1899-1902).

Helen Bridge 1866 – Mooi River

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The Helen Bridge, about 3 kilometers downstream of Mooi River, is one of the oldest remaining bridges in KZN. The bridge was opened on 19 November 1866, by Colonel JJ Bisset, Administrator of Natal. The bridge is named after his second daughter, Helen. 

The bridge was on the main transport route upcountry to the inland, at the time and is still in use. There was a  Boer War remount station at Weston (College) and most traffic at the time would have passed over this important bridge.

It would appear that the desecration to the opening plaque (1866), is as a result of being used as a route marker. Just another Philistine amongst the many in our midst.

 

The Helen Bridge over The Mooi River.

 

The Helen Bridge – the desecrated plaque.

 

 

Shaka’s Rock – Groutville – Itshe likaShaka

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This monument and stone is to the south of Stanger, near Groutville and has commanding views to the north and south. It is said that Shaka used the rock as a seat to review his impi’s on maneuver.

This monument is also close to the Groutville home, museum and burial place of Chief Albert Luthuli. The museum, graves and Shaka’s seat are all worth a visit and are just off the old road, with clear signage.

 

Shaka’s seat (rock) and plaque.

 

Shaka’s seat information plaque.

 

Views from Shaka’s seat.

Coedmore Castle – Stainbank Nature Reserve

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These images were taken with the permission of a member of the Stainbank family of Coedmore Castle in Stainbank Nature Reserve. The stunning mural on the wall in their home was created by Mary Stainbank and depicts the life and times of the family. It was painted by Mary Stainbank who along with her friend Wilgeford Vann-Hall were without doubt some of Durban’s most prolific artists, in the 1920’s and 1930’s. One of the murals depicts a stone chapel, the ruins of which are on the estate. A sad but evocative sight alongside the Stainbank Family graves. It is an emotional to experience this heritage and the incredible art in the Stainbank Gallery.
Mary and ‘Wilge” were contributors of sculptures and stained-glass windows to the the Addington Children’s Hospital, which opened in 1931.
This is a teaser – watch this space!!

Mural with Stainbank Family Chapel in the background. The wall length mural in Coedmore Castle

The remains of the Stainbank Family Chapel alongside the family graves.

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